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About sinicysm

  • Rank
    Standard Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1985

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  • Location
    Australia QLD
  1. Selling a Haltech e11v2 ecu with haltech patch loom for a sr20 s14 series 1. Comes with a GM 3 bar map sensor and air temp sensor. Will also throw in a s14 series 1 engine loom so you can run this on any VCT motor with minimal mods. $550 shipped anywhere in Aus
  2. Works Bell Rapfix GTC-R

    Selling my Works Bell Rapfix GTC-R flipper. You just pulled the lever and the steering flips out allowing you to get . Here is the link http://www.worksbell.co.jp/en/products/rapfix/gtc_r.htm i paid $550 new for this, asking $360 shipped anywhere in australia. 0406753928
  3. This is how the intake cam at tdc sits. The lobe isn't 100% perpendicular to the head
  4. well i thought my problems would be over, but still the same, admit its a little better cause of the rocker arm now being in place properly. its got injection and ignition (all runners are hot when i touch them) so either my mechanical timing is out or the cas is playing up.
  5. it broke one of the slotted shims, but i found the broken piece that was missing which is good, ill grab another tomomorrow and report back on how it fires up properly for the first itme
  6. so i got home and pulled the rocker cover off, decided to have at the rocker arm, the one directly under the pcv valve had fallen off. looked further and there was a hose clamp under the rocker arm which forced it to fall off. im only assuming it was off the pcv pipe, must of fell off when i was putting the intake manifold on. what a stupid mistake. anyway thanks for your help guys. wouldnt of thought to even look at the rockers
  7. when you say cam profile you mean the front lobes are sitting to the deck of the head?
  8. fuel wise im ok, i pulled the rail out of the car and wired it up and checked thats it got injector pulse/spraying fuel properly. spray looks nice and consistent, so the CAS is performing well too. Ill play with the CAS adjustment this afternoon, one thing a friend pointed out is that im using s13 Tomei Pro cams in a s14 motor/head. These have been said to be about 10deg difference on the intake side (cam dowel), but im also using the s13 stock cam gear so that shouldnt matter?
  9. well the plugs were fine, gap seemed good, and no blockages in the ic piping
  10. ive double checked the CAS, and it seems right to me , here is a pic Its hard to get a timing light and check the base timing as the car doesnt idle, it just stalls. i might try adjusting the cas to see if that makes a difference this afternoon. I havent considered the spark plug gap, just the same plugs that were in it before. might be worht a look too!
  11. Ive killed 2 VCT units in a year with PON cams and stock springs, I was over it, ive now gone to pro cams and performance springs. Im going to sacrifice a bit of down low but id rather that then keep replacing vct units. From what I can tell ive installed the rocker arms properly. And compression is dead even across all 4 cyclinders
  12. Hi everyone, Recently i rebuilt my sr20, on the first start up it fires up rough, like its only on 3 cyclinders, hard to rev up (delayed) and soon as you back off the accelerator it instantly stalls. ive done the typical checks such as -pulled all the coil packs out and checked each for spark, all good. -pulled the fuel rail out and connected the injectors to power , they were'nt leaking and the spray is good -New fuel filter and new filter sock on the pump as the old ones were full of crud -Fuel pressure at the reg is good (aeromotive reg) -triple checked all the earths -fuel lines connected the correct orientation -installed the CAS twice to ensure ive done that correctly -checked for air leaks -checked compression (perfect 148 across all cyclinders) So to me it kind of points to a timing issue?. I run a haltech e11v2 (with patch harness) with the laptop connected i seem to get good RPM signal so im thinking its not a faulty CAS. The only things that have changed since last time it was running, is that i dont have the OEM knock sensor connected (been told that haltech ps1000 and the older e11s dont use the factory knock sensor) and i have deleted VCT now running S13 PRO Cams. Also with the current tune thats on my ecu with X timing set, would this need to be zero'd out? would any of the ablove factors cause the motor now to idle/run smoothly? I just want to ensure the car is mechanically running right before i take it to the tuners. Here is a pic of my timing chain, / sprockets.
  13. hi guys just finished buttoning up my sr20 im rebuilding, looking at my old block yesterday i realised that i never reinstalled the head to block locating dowels. (two of them) i was just wondering if this matters now? im using ARP head studs and tomei headgasket, i really dont want to have to pull the head off again after ive just torqued and sealed it all up. i installed the head with 2 ARP studs in the back of the block so this should of secured the gasket correctly, im more worried about a bigger gap not being taking up on the bottom of the stud / gasket now